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From 1914 to 1988, Swiss vintners lived a life of relative isolation. Sheltered from international competitors, the Alpine nation’s winegrowers continued the tradition, without any incentive to strive for excellence. When the Swiss wine market eventually opened up, many of them feared they would lose the basis of their livelihood. Others conceived of free trade as a promising opportunity to woe new customers and markets and make the most of their wines. One of them was Louis-Philippe Bovard, the president of Domaine Louis Bovard Cully. His wines are meanwhile being offered in top-class restaurants in New York, Chicago, Paris and Berlin. “In the last decade or so, we have developed a series of new wines that are extremely popular internationally, especially with the young generation,” says Mr. Bovard. |
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A century-old tradition
The family-owned vineyard located on the shores of Lake Geneva is now being run by the twelfth Bovard generation, thus testifying to a successful business blend of tradition and innovation. The Domaine includes some 17 hectares of vineyards that concentrate on the Dézaley, Calamin, St-Saphorin and Epesses appellations. Louis-Philippe Bovard has always insisted on producing wines that reflect the soil they grew on and has never been satisfied with simple aperitif-like wines |
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Tradition and innovation
And yet he dared to tread new paths by growing Sauvignon blanc, Chenin, Merlot and Syrah instead of the traditional Chasselas vines. Some of these brands are sold as such; others – such as the red Dézaley – combine the grapes of Pinot noir, Merlot and Syrah. As it stands today, Domaine Louis Bovard Scully offers 17 different red and white wines. The variety of compositions has produced distinc specialties
that reflect an interesting blend of climates and soils.
A distinct taste
“We came up with a new series of appellation-related types of vines that are being converted into wine in oak barrels and on yeast,” continues Mr. Bovard. “This method has an age-old tradition, which fell into oblivion, but which we are trying to revive. It helps to bring out the typical ‘goût du terroir’, the taste of the soil, while reducing the amount of carbonic acid
and sulphur.” After consulting with well-known oenologists such as Jean Luc Colombo and specialists from Bordeaux University, Domaine Louis Bovard Cully started to develop its new wines eight years ago.
Outstanding references
While some of the vineyard’s more traditional customers were scandalised at these innovations, the new wines have earned Domaine Louis Bovard an outstanding reputation after all. A recent article in the ‘Wine Spectator’ had nothing but praise for them and ranked them between 88 and 90 points. “We currently deliver these new wines to some 60 restaurants in New York and the top 40 restaurants in Switzerland,” explains Mr. Bovard. Among them are renowned names such as Rabaey, Rochar, Blockbergen in Lausanne, Buess in Basel, Jaeger in Schaffhausen and Goddard in Geneva.
Some figures
The ‘new’ wines already account for one third of the Domaine’s turnover. Another third is due to Bovard’s Dézaley wine. Labelled ‘the Olympus of Chasselas’, this wine boasts a distinguishing flavour of roasted nuts, dried fruit and honey. Its Médinette Grand Cru Dézaley comes with a historic ‘art nouveau’ label, as it was created a century ago by the grandfather of today’s owner. “Our Médinette reaches its full body after two years and has been praised by chefs de cuisine throughout the world,” says Mr. Bovard.
Organic farming
The president’s forward-looking attitude has also led the vineyard to abandon the use of chemical fertilizers and dedicate itself to organic wine-growing instead. A quarter of its territory is currently being cultivated according to ecological principles. “We are convinced that this farming method will improve the quality of our wines and bring out their character even better,” says Mr. Bovard, whose brother Antoine is in charge of the Bovard vineyards.
Some facts
Domaine Louis Bovard Cully currently has an output of 200,000 to 250,000 bottles per year. 80% of its produce is derived from its own grapes; Bovard buys the remaining 20% from neighbouring vintners. 85% of all wines sold are white wines. The Domaine serves both restaurants (40%) as well as private consumers (40%) who can acquire the renowned Bovard wines by mail order or at trade fairs such as Basel’s Muba, the Vinexpo in Bordeaux or Prowein in Düsseldorf. Another 20% is sold to Swiss supermarket chains such as Globus and Coop.
Ambitious outlook
Having sold its wines to Germany and the U.S.A. for nine years, the Swiss vineyard is presently also entering the French and the Canadian market. Exports account for 5 to 10% of Bovard’s turnover. And yet, the passionate president does not want to rest on his laurels. Instead, he aims at an export figure of 20%. “My brother Antoine and I feel responsible for leaving our successors a solid, competitive business,” says Mr. Bovard.
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© September 2010 - European Publications GmbH
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