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There is more than one way of getting to know Croatia – but one of the most fascinating is via water. Intrepid mariners setting off to explore this gem on the Adriatic will find nothing less than paradise: More than 1,100 islands, of which only 66 are inhabited, nearly 6,000 kilometres of coastline, a plethora of enchanted bays and a Mediterranean climate all combine to make Croatia an ideal playground for sailors. Only a few hours on board a yacht are needed to fall forever under Croatia’s spell and to find oneself hungry to learn more about a country that is acknowledged as one of the most varied and interesting in Europe.
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The masts of the yachts, motor launches and catamarans that are moored to the narrow wooden jetties stretch up into the bright, blue sky. The water slaps gently against the white hulls of the boats. It is late morning in the Marina Veruda, located to the south of the bustling port of Pula, and the hum of activity that surrounded the departure of sailors, pleasure boat captains and Adriatic adventurers on their way to new destinations has ceased. It will start again when others arrive in the evening to find a mooring in the marina. In olden days the wide bay around Veruda was an idyllic fishing harbour. Now, as in many other places along the Croatian coastline, it is home to a modern marina with several hundred boat berths. Throughout the year it is the gateway to the Adriatic for hundreds of hobby sailors and a popular start-off point for sailing tours to Croatia’s northern island paradise. This is also where the ‘Sun Odyssey’, a 13-metre yacht from the Sunsail fleet, will set off with its five-man crew for a four-day sailing tour.
Not just for the rich and famous
“Many people still think that chartering a yacht and setting off on a dream holiday on the water is a pleasure reserved only for top earners and people with sailing qualifications,” says Christian Wiederer, PR Manager of the yacht charter agency Master Yachting Deutschland. “In actual fact you don’t have to be either. Although the costs for flights, yacht charter, insurance, food and, if needed, accompanying skipper are not exactly bargain basement, because the total costs are divided amongst all the passengers it is certainly attractive to the average earner.” The only problem that might remain is agreeing with the crew on a destination: Master Yachting charters yachts, motorboats, catamarans and, more recently, houseboats in more than 30 sailing areas in over 20 countries. |
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Relaxing on board
Next to destinations such as Greece, Turkey or France, Croatia has in recent years become one of blue water sailing’s most fashionable stomping grounds. The reason why becomes clear as soon as you leave the marina at Pula with the open sea ahead. The Adriatic stretches out from the coastline like a shimmering carpet of deep turquoise. For a while you hug the craggy green coastline. Then the first islands appear on the horizon. You pass Porer, a tiny, inhabited island with a lighthouse off the southern tip of Istria, and cross the Kvarner, a stretch of sea separating Istria from the mythical Aspyrtides archipeligo with the islands of Cres, Losinj, Unije und Susak. With the sun shining, a light breeze puffing out the sails and the fabulous island panorama in view, a feeling of relaxation is not long in coming. From now on that feeling will be a constant companion.
After four hours the first anchorage is reached: a quiet little bay on the eastern side of the island of Unije where around 20 yachts are already lying at anchor.
A gently rising stone path leads the way from the bay to the town of Unije. From here there is a spectacular view over the idyllic Adriatic – and over the island’s grass covered landing strip. “The aeroplane is an important means of transport here. The planes take the children to school and bring the post for the people living on the island,” explains skipper Marko Radolovi´c, who has worked Sunsail, one of the largest charter companies in the world with 36 bases and a fleet of more than 2,000 of the finest yachts imaginable, for the past two years.
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Learning the ropes!
The next morning the yacht sails through the Unijski Channel connecting Unije and the elongated island of Losinj. As the wind is blowing from the southwest it’s all hands on deck: Tacking against the wind! With expert instruction from the skipper, even the less experienced crewmembers manage to execute some quite respectable turns. Scudding along at six knots, the ‘Sun Odyssey’ even manages to near its top speed under sail. In Mali Losinj, the larger of the two island towns, it was only planed to stop for fuel, however in light of a storm warning on the weather report it seems advisable to stay in the sheltered Marina, located at the end of a fjord-like, five-kilometre long bay. It is still only early afternoon and there is no sign of the storm. There isn’t the suggestion of a breeze in the Marina and even in the shade of the blue Bimini top the heat on deck is unbearable. Time to go ashore. |
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Island life and Mediterranean flair
The Marina is surrounded on all sides by rows of pastel-coloured houses, cafes, restaurants and souvenir shops, which seem to be observing a siesta under the hot afternoon sun. The paved square at the top of the marina is deserted. A fully laden boat moored in the harbour offers a tempting array of colourful fresh fruit and vegetables – a floating market stall. “For the traders who live on the island and come to the harbour to sell their produce, it is cheaper to pay mooring fees than rent a shop in Mali Losinj,“ explains Marko. “In winter they sell fish.”
Steep alleys lined on both sides by high stone walls lead to the church of St. Marija. The view over the bay and the marina is ample reward for the effort of the climb. Oleander blossoms and branches laden with ripe lemons, which clearly run riot here, reach above the balustrades of the inner courtyards and walled gardens. The Mediterranean climate also suits palm trees and cacti with bright red flowers. In the late afternoon, the harbour gradually comes to life. One by one the sailors arrive in the marina after their day trips and descend on the cafes and restaurants for drinks, small talk – and of course to enjoy the culinary delicacies. Fish and seafood lovers will be in their element: freshly caught bream, sole, tuna, octopus and scampi can all be found on the menu!
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A visit to the flower island
The destination for the next day is the island of Ilovik, whose quiet is in marked contrast to the lively Mali Losinj. During the winter months the island is practically uninhabited. Its 160 inhabitants only return to the island in the summer. That is when Ilovik becomes a popular destination for sailors and the tourists who come each day on the steamer from Mali Losinj. Ilovik is also called the ‘flower island’ – and with good reason! A walk around the island quickly becomes a journey of discovery through its fascinating flora and fauna. Every few metres there is something new to marvel at: cascading oleander blooms, metre-high agaves, magnificent butterflies and numerous lizards sunning themselves on the hot stones. At sunset, when the day-trippers have all gone home, a welcome silence falls on Ilovik like a blanket.
At the end of the tour, as you leave the yacht and walk up the swaying jetty, amid the mass of new experiences there is only one question to answer: When does the next Croatian sailing trip start?
Silke Butke
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© September 2010 - European Publications GmbH
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